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Double Herringbone Wood Flooring: A Design and Planning Guide
Updated: 22 hours ago
Two boards side by side, repeated in a zigzag: a classic pattern made bolder.
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Herringbone has been a favorite in fine homes for centuries, and double herringbone gives that classic pattern a bigger, more confident look. Instead of single boards meeting at each turn, pairs of boards set side by side create a wider zigzag that reads clearly across a room. It is a striking choice, and it rewards careful planning from the first sketch to the final coat of finish.
What Is a Double Herringbone Floor?
In a standard herringbone floor, single rectangular boards are laid at an angle so that the end of each board meets the side of the next, forming a broken zigzag. Double herringbone uses the same idea with pairs of boards. Two boards are laid side by side as one unit, and those units step back and forth across the floor. The result is a pattern with the same rhythm as classic herringbone but at a larger scale, with broader bands of wood and fewer visible turns per foot. Some designers take the idea further with triple herringbone, using three boards in each step, but double is the most common choice.
How It Differs from Herringbone and Chevron
Classic herringbone, double herringbone and chevron are often confused. In herringbone, the boards are cut square at the ends, and the zigzag has a stepped, interlocking look. Chevron boards are cut at an angle on the ends, so they meet in a clean point that forms a continuous V. Double herringbone keeps the square-ended, interlocking look of herringbone, but doubles the width of each step. Because each unit is wider, the pattern looks calmer and more architectural than a busy single herringbone, while still having more movement than a straight plank floor. Our guide to herringbone vs. chevron explains the two parent patterns in more detail.
Where Double Herringbone Works Best
Scale is the key to using this pattern well. In a large living room, entry hall or open plan space, double herringbone has room to show its rhythm, and the wider bands keep the floor from feeling fussy. In a very small room, the pattern may only repeat a few times, so it can look cut off at the walls. Long hallways and galleries can be very effective, especially when the pattern runs along the length of the space and draws the eye forward. It also suits both traditional and modern interiors. With a natural finish and clean walls it reads as contemporary, while with a warm stain it feels historic and European.
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Choosing Board Size, Species and Grade
Because the boards are paired, the width of each board sets the scale of the whole floor. Narrower boards give a finer, more detailed pattern, while wider boards make each step bolder. Board length matters too, since longer boards stretch the zigzag and shorter boards tighten it. White oak is a popular choice for pattern floors because its grain is attractive in every direction and it takes stain and oil finishes well. Grade changes the mood. A clean, select grade emphasizes the geometry of the pattern, while a character grade with knots and color variation feels more rustic and relaxed. Looking at a laid-out sample panel is the best way to judge the combination.
Layout and Installation Matter More Than Usual
A pattern floor is only as good as its layout. Before any boards go down, the installer plans a centerline so the pattern sits square to the main view of the room and looks balanced at the walls and doorways. Every board must be accurately sized, because small errors repeat across the floor and the pattern quickly drifts. The subfloor needs to be flat and sound, and the boards are typically glued down, or glued and fastened, to hold the geometry tight. Pattern floors also involve more cutting at the edges and more labor than a straight lay, so they take longer to install. Ask your installer how they plan the layout before work begins.
Finishing a Double Herringbone Floor
In a pattern floor, the grain runs in several directions at once, which makes sanding more demanding than on a straight plank floor. Sanding across the grain can leave scratches that show up under stain, so a careful sequence of sanding and screening is needed for a smooth, even surface. Many pattern floors are installed unfinished and finished on site, so the whole surface is sanded flat after installation and the pattern reads as one continuous plane. The choice of finish then shapes the look. A natural oil finish lets the changing grain direction catch the light, while a darker stain makes the zigzag more graphic. Always test the color on sample boards first.
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Is Double Herringbone Right for Your Project?
Double herringbone is a good fit when you want a pattern floor that feels bold but not busy, and when the room is large enough to let the pattern repeat. It asks for more planning, more skilled labor and more careful finishing than a straight plank floor, so it is worth discussing early in the design process, ideally before cabinets, thresholds and stair details are fixed. Bring your room dimensions, the main sightlines and any photos you love to your first conversation. A specialist can then help you choose board sizes, the direction of the pattern and a finish that suits the way you live in the space.
Quick Answers
What is the difference between herringbone and double herringbone?
Herringbone uses single boards in each step of the zigzag. Double herringbone lays two boards side by side in each step, which makes the pattern wider and bolder.
Is double herringbone the same as chevron?
No. Chevron boards are cut at an angle and meet in a point. Double herringbone uses square-ended boards in pairs that interlock in a stepped zigzag.
Which rooms suit a double herringbone floor?
Larger rooms, entry halls, open plan spaces and long hallways, where the pattern has room to repeat and does not look cut off at the walls.
Can a double herringbone floor be refinished?
Yes. A solid or thick-wear-layer floor can be sanded and refinished, but the mixed grain directions call for careful sanding by an experienced crew.
Talk to a Wood Flooring Specialist
Not sure which option fits your project? Call 908-232-6600 (Monday to Friday, 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. Eastern), visit our showroom at 406B West Broad Street in Westfield, New Jersey, or book a virtual consultation. We work with homeowners, architects and designers across New Jersey, New York City and the East Coast, and serve clients nationwide.
Call 908-232-6600, email joe@hugginsflooring.com or book a virtual consultation. Explore our sanding and finishing, eco-friendly finishes and floor care services.
About The Author
Joe Avila has 26 years in the wood flooring trade. He is an NWFA-certified wood flooring inspector, installer and sander, and for more than a decade he has taught accredited continuing-education programs for AIA, ASID and IDCEC audiences, training thousands of architects and design professionals in how to specify wood flooring correctly.
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